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But more memorable than the products sold are the women who sell them: women with freshly cut flowers and wide ribbons woven into their elaborate braids, who rest their fists firmly on ample hips and laugh, throwing back their shoulders to show fondly nurtured beer bellies under embroidered, cap-sleeve blouses they call huipiles.
They run the market and, by extension, the economic life of their town and their families, carrying on the tradition of the pre-Columbian Zapotec empire. In short, Juchitan is a matriarchy. In many ways, it is a matriarchy that feels besieged, caught between its own mythology and a patriarchal outside world that tends to dismiss this society as a mirror image of machismo , casting women almost in the role of bullies and their men as sissies.
The people of Juchitan insist that the reality is far more complex, that when women run an economy, they run it differently, with different priorities and more democratic decision-making.
In this aspect, Zapotec culture is more advanced, and European culture is catching up. Cabrera says he was shocked to see how far behind other cultures were, when at 13 he was sent to school in Jalapa, the capital of the Gulf Coast state of Veracruz. Women went out to run errands and came straight home. In Juchitan, women are always out--walking arm in arm down the street, chatting in the town square and, above all, selling.
Florinda Luis Orozco, 49, a teacher, was selling homemade tortillas by the time she was 5. Boys sometimes help out with sales. By extension, men tend to be more reserved, because the outgoing personality that goes with selling is considered a feminine trait. Jacinta Perez peddles hammocks that her husband weaves at home. We help out. We work to have our homes and our jewelry. In most societies, however, what a Juchitan woman does would be considered more than helping out.