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Elsewhere, there were plenty of his familiar codes and a touch of the utilitarianism he has embraced in recent seasons, traceable in a design language that marries streetwear pieces with color-blocked details. Oliver brought which brought an intriguing mise en place to the mix β the mash to that mish came from the wacky headpieces via trousers that morphed into gowns, a staple that saw interchangeability promoted to new heights, extending to floor-length hoodies which, in turn, brewed evening gowns with a practical verve to match.
There were lots and lots of ditzy touchpoints on offerings of irregularly assembled panels that emanated an almost grungy feel and were meticulously designed to do so. There were also some straightforward, to-the-point looks here, but what made this outing work was its atmosphere of rough-and-tumble. Do they need more than that?
Not really. This season, the emphasis was put on longer lengths and ladylike cuts and clean detailings. In general, with the exception of a tailored topper or a sleek, clean-cut jacket, he erredβas usualβon the side of clothes that are toss-on-able. Also as usual, the materials in the collection are circular in origin, sourced entirely from the overstock and deadstock of Italian manufacturers. Here, outerwear features heavy wool and cashmere blends, but this time the volumes gained a breezier stance.
Classic tailoring runs apace, such as a blazer in an hourglass silhouette, inspired by the couture volumes of the s. With a spectacle enjoying a hot revival as it is right now, celebrity stylists will come in throngs for those slogan pieces in flashy pink, teamed with camouflage textures and all-black, gloomy surface patterns that basked the lineup in a cool, sexy island of doom.